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← All guides · Cutting technique · Updated September 2026

How to prune a Portuguese laurel hedge in Broadstairs: timing, technique and the coastal case for choosing it over cherry laurel.

Prunus lusitanica (Portuguese laurel) is the quieter, better-behaved sibling of the cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) that dominates CT10 gardens. It grows at roughly a third of the speed, carries smaller and darker leaves on distinctively red stems, and tolerates the free-draining Margate chalk and salt-laden easterlies of the Thanet coast considerably better than cherry laurel does at exposed positions. It is also the species I find most consistently under-pruned: the slower growth rate misleads owners into thinking it needs less attention, when in fact a single annual cut timed correctly produces a far neater result than neglect followed by a hard chop. This guide sets out that annual cut, step by step, along with the nesting-season check that precedes any summer work on any species.

Steps

Step 1: Decide which cutting window applies this year

Portuguese laurel produces dense new growth in two main flushes: spring (April to June) and a shorter late-summer push (July to August). The flowers appear on long upright racemes in June, white, faintly scented, and attractive to pollinators. The small red-to-purple berries that follow ripen in September and October.

On a well-maintained hedge trimmed annually, there are two viable windows. The first is late August to mid-September, after the late-summer growth flush has finished and before the first Thanet coast frosts begin arriving from mid-October. This single annual cut keeps a Portuguese laurel hedge at its intended dimensions and is the approach I use on most CT10 gardens. The second option is a two-cut calendar: a light pass in late May to early June, which removes the spring growth flush before it extends significantly, followed by the main annual cut in late August. The two-cut method suits hedges used as formal screens where any visual loosening through the summer is undesirable.

One timing to avoid: cutting in June or early July during peak flowering. Portuguese laurel is not as dependent on a precise post-flowering window as pyracantha (where the cut timing determines the entire berry crop), but trimming through the flower racemes removes a worthwhile pollinator resource and, in a poor summer, the berry display for overwintering thrushes, fieldfares and redwings arriving on the Thanet coast in October and November.

On an overgrown or neglected hedge that requires a hard renovation rather than a maintenance cut, late November to February is the right window. Renovation is covered separately at the end of this guide.

Step 2: Choose the right tool for the leaf size

This is where Portuguese laurel and cherry laurel diverge most clearly in practice. Cherry laurel leaves are large (up to 200mm long), with thick, waxy surfaces: a hedge trimmer blade cuts across them and leaves brown, scorched-looking edges that persist for weeks. The standard advice on cherry laurel is to use secateurs or a single-action hand shear for a tidy finish. Portuguese laurel leaves are considerably smaller, typically 60-100mm long, with a finer, less waxy texture. A hedge trimmer produces a clean result on Portuguese laurel without the browning that makes trimmer cuts look wrong on its larger relative.

For a hedge up to 1.5m tall and 600mm wide, a single-sided electric or battery hedge trimmer with a 45-55cm blade is practical for the faces and top. For a larger, mature hedge (2m or taller), a petrol trimmer gives the reach and power for continuous cutting without fatigue. Secateurs or loppers are needed alongside the trimmer for any thick stems in the upper growth that have become too substantial for trimmer blades, and for interior clearance work after the face cut.

Step 3: Walk the full hedge length and check for active bird nests

Portuguese laurel is a dense, dark-interior hedge that provides good nesting cover. Blackbirds, robins, dunnocks, song thrushes and wrens all nest in it regularly across CT10. The main nesting window runs 1 March to 31 August, and the late-August cut that finishes this species' annual calendar sits inside that window. Before starting any trimmer work from March onwards, walk the full length of the hedge and watch for adult birds flying repeatedly into or out of the same section. Listen for alarm calls. Gently part the outer growth with a gloved hand at any suspected section before starting the machine.

Late August is statistically the end of the primary nesting season on the Thanet coast, but a late second brood, particularly from blackbirds in a warm summer, can run into September. Three minutes of observation before starting is not optional; it is both a legal requirement and the only way to know.

Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981: the nesting-season check before any summer cut

Section 1 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 makes it a criminal offence to intentionally damage or destroy an active bird nest, or to disturb a bird on an active nest. The practical caution window is 1 March to 31 August. The penalty is an unlimited fine per nest disturbed, with up to six months in prison for aggravated cases. Portuguese laurel sits inside this window for both the May-June first cut and the August-September main annual cut. Checking before you start is mandatory, not optional best practice.

Step 4: Cut the faces and top to a batter angle

Set a line guide if the hedge runs more than 3-4 metres: a taught string line at the intended height at each end is the quickest way to keep the top level and avoid the drifting rises and dips that are hard to correct once cut. Then work from one end, cutting the face of the hedge in long sweeping passes with the trimmer blade held at a slight angle to the face, not flush against it, so the cut ends of stems are directed outward rather than collecting on the hedge face where they brown and look untidy.

Apply a batter angle: keep the base of the hedge 50-100mm wider than the top across each face. This allows light to reach the lower foliage and prevents the base thinning out over successive annual cuts. Portuguese laurel responds well to a proper batter, and a hedge that has been cut square or top-heavy for years will typically show noticeably thinner lower growth, which the batter corrects over two or three seasons.

For the top of the hedge, cut to the string line in a flat plane. Portuguese laurel does not carry the same visual weight of dead leaf material on a flat top that beech and hornbeam do, so the flat top cut is relatively clean. Remove any upright leaders that have pushed significantly above the hedge line using loppers first, before switching to the trimmer for the flat top pass.

Step 5: Remove crossing and inward-growing wood by hand

After the face and top cut, put the trimmer down and work through the hedge interior with secateurs or loppers. Remove any clearly dead branches, crossing stems rubbing against live growth, and any strongly inward-pointing shoots that contribute nothing to the outward-facing structure. Portuguese laurel's interior is less prone to congestion than cherry laurel's because the slower growth rate produces a more open branching structure over time. Even so, on a hedge that has not had this interior clearance for several years, opening up the inside improves air circulation and reduces the incidence of bacterial canker (Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae), which shows as dark, weeping lesions on the stems and is more prevalent in congested conditions.

If you find canker lesions during this clearance, cut back the affected stem to healthy, clean wood and clean the secateurs with a diluted disinfectant solution before moving to the next stem. The Thanet coast's relatively dry conditions (approximately 550mm of annual rainfall at Manston) reduce the incidence of bacterial canker compared with wetter parts of the UK, but it is not absent.

Step 6: Collect and dispose of clippings properly

Portuguese laurel clippings are not as hazardous to handle as pyracantha or hawthorn, but they contain the same cyanogenic glycosides present across the Prunus family: the clippings should not be added to a compost heap or left where livestock can access them. For a domestic garden in CT10, the correct routes are the green garden waste kerbside bin, or the Thanet District Council household waste recycling centre on Poorhole Lane, Broadstairs. Do not burn laurel clippings in an enclosed space: the combustion products of cyanogenic plant material are toxic at concentration. An open-air bonfire is acceptable where local conditions permit.

Portuguese laurel versus cherry laurel: the practical differences for CT10 gardens

I am asked about the two laurels regularly, and the comparison matters for CT10 in particular because the site conditions on the Thanet coast favour Portuguese laurel in ways that are not always obvious from the garden-centre shelf.

Cherry laurel grows at approximately 60cm per year in good conditions and has a coarser, more vigorous root system. Portuguese laurel grows at 20-40cm per year, produces a denser, more even hedge for the growth it makes, and is markedly more drought-tolerant on the free-draining Margate chalk of most Broadstairs and St Peter's gardens. On a garden site with 550mm of annual rainfall and a thin chalk substrate, Portuguese laurel establishes more reliably from bare-root stock without the first-year irrigation commitment that cherry laurel needs on the same soil.

For salt-wind tolerance: cherry laurel is adequate for sheltered positions set back from the clifftop, but scorches in exposed positions above Stone Bay, Joss Bay, Kingsgate or the North Foreland. Portuguese laurel performs meaningfully better in exposed coastal positions, making it a viable choice for the second row of a clifftop garden where cherry laurel would struggle. Neither species is a true frontline cliff-edge plant in the way that Escallonia or Griselinia are: see the coastal species guide for frontline choices.

The one area where cherry laurel has a genuine practical advantage is cost: bare-root cherry laurel stock is widely available at lower prices per plant than Portuguese laurel, and the faster establishment means a hedge at working height sooner. For a flat, sheltered garden in central Broadstairs or St Peter's where budget is the main constraint, cherry laurel is defensible. For a site with any coastal exposure, thin chalk, or where a more formal, slower-growing hedge is wanted, Portuguese laurel is the better plant.

Renovation: hard pruning a neglected Portuguese laurel hedge

Portuguese laurel regenerates reliably from cuts into old wood, better than cherry laurel and significantly better than most conifers. A hedge that has grown substantially beyond its intended dimensions, has become open and leggy at the base, or has been cut at the wrong time repeatedly can be hard-renovated in late November to February, outside the nesting season.

Cut the sides back to within 150-200mm of the main stem framework. Height can be reduced by up to 40-50% in a single pass. The plant will push vigorous new growth from dormant buds on the old wood through the following spring, and a hedge renovated in January will typically look presentable again by August of the same year, well ahead of most species that require staged renovation over two winters. Full density is re-established within two growing seasons of a hard renovation.

Staging a Portuguese laurel renovation over two winters (cutting one side one year, the other the following year) is sometimes done on very old, thick-stemmed hedges where the structural shock of a single-pass cut feels excessive. For hedges of typical CT10 garden dimensions (1.5-2.5m tall, 600-900mm wide), a one-pass renovation in a single winter is appropriate and gives a faster return to a usable hedge.

Conservation area check for Broadstairs gardens

Broadstairs has three conservation areas: Broadstairs CA, St Peter's CA and Reading Street CA. Annual maintenance cutting of a Portuguese laurel hedge within its existing dimensions does not require a section 211 notice to Thanet District Council. A hard renovation that substantially reduces the height or spread of a hedge forming part of the character of a conservation area streetscape could in theory attract TDC attention if a neighbour complains, though the s.211 notice requirement technically applies to trees rather than hedges. If you are uncertain about the threshold for a large-scale reduction in one of the three CAs, the conservation area rules guide covers the detail of what is and is not caught and what the £20,000-per-tree penalty context is.

Portuguese laurel pruning in Broadstairs or CT10: fixed-price quotes

I prune and renovate Portuguese laurel hedges across Broadstairs, St Peter's and the wider CT10 area. All work is quoted at a walk-round before starting, including renovation cuts on hedges that have outgrown their space. Contact me here, call 07763 100 477, or email hello@broadstairshedges.co.uk.

Sources: Ashridge Nurseries, "Portuguese Laurel Hedging Guide" (ashridgetrees.co.uk; UK nursery, Somerset, verified authority for UK hedging practice); Ashridge Nurseries YouTube channel (youtube.com/@AshridgeNurseries; direct YouTube egress blocked from the generation environment at run time, source verified via web-search cross-reference per INGESTION.md fallback protocol); Royal Horticultural Society, Prunus lusitanica cultivation notes (rhs.org.uk); Hopes Grove Nurseries, Portuguese Laurel hedging information (hopesgrovenurseries.co.uk; established 1992, Weald of Kent); Gardeners' World Magazine, "How to prune laurel" (gardenersworld.com); Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, section 1 (nesting season); Town and Country Planning Act 1990, section 211 (conservation area notification); UK Centre for Ecology and Hydrology, Manston climate averages (annual rainfall approx. 550mm).